Shrines, Subways, Sprirt and…Shhhhhhh.

Japan is a land of deep contrast:  A deep spiritual connection to sacred ways of the past set amidst an ultra-modern, technology driven collection of mega cities.  While this may seem a chaotic clash of sights and sounds, its not.  Quite the opposite really.  Stepping through the many Japanese cities we visited was a calming, pretty, simple, appreciative, kind experience.  At times we felt like the city was so welcoming it quieted itself so as not to disturb our visit. 

I always teach my students that theater’s primary job is (and has always been) to reflect the society it exists in; its ethos, character, politics, pulse…its vibe.  The god-fearing tragedies of the Greeks, the church dominated pastoral plays of the middle ages, the European absurdist’s response to Hitler’s final solution—“holding a mirror up to life.”  This is beautifully evident in Japan’s rich theatre tradition:  Kabuki’s bold, theatrical, ornate visual world balanced by the razor sharp definition and precision of each gesture, each step each pose.  Attention to each detail without apologizing for the grandeur of the environment, of the style.  The spirit of a nation served generously in vividly proud, lush portions.  If you can imagine the visual strength of a huge rock concert (KISS, Lady Gaga) combined with the precise, delicate ritual of calligraphy and embraced by the very real spirits of ancestors from thousands of years ago…you can imagine Kabuki.  I bloggeth over in my imaginative description because (alas) Kabuki was out of season during our visit.  Nonetheless, this description also fits the personality of Japan.  We visited five major cities during our visit and while each had its own separate flavor, some common attributes reported by students, faculty, staff and family were:

-Feng Shui all the way.  Great effort goes into the order, balance and beauty of all things.  Buildings, streets, food, people.

-Kindness and Accommodating.  There is no word for “No” in Japanese.  Why?  Because they never use it.  We all returned with stories of Japanese people going out of their way to help us…and then apologizing for not doing enough.

-Clean, Clean, Clean.  It is difficult to find a trashcan in Japan.  It is also difficult to find garbage…anywhere.  Imagine if a giant cleansing wind blew through Manhattan followed by a hot rinse…that’s the Japan-City we saw consistently.

-Yum!  Delicious, clean, fresh food everywhere.  From the subway kiosks to the sushi café’s, to the fast food street shops…delicious food prepared carefully and thoughtfully.  A hot bowl of noodles with fresh shrimp was never far away.

-Shhhh.  There is no needless noise in Japan.  We were in large, contemporary, highly populated cities and it seemed like a holiday everyday.  Step on a packed subway train:  Shhhh.  Walk downtown to find a restaurant:  Shhhh.  Stroll through a shopping area:  Shhhh.  It was a relief not to hear noise.

-Spirit Matters.  The matter of fact acceptance of Japan’s Shinto past (with all of symbolic superstitions) as well as the contemporary commitment to Buddhism and other belief systems are simply present at all times.  No fuss, no advertising, no judgment…it just Is.  This universal spiritual embrace seems to balance past and present with a touch of self-aware humor.  It was comforting to witness that.

Pic-tastes:

Mt Fuji towering protectively over the port city of Yokohama.  This was the view from our room as we sailed into port.  An immediate welcome to the pleasant contrasts of Japan.

Yokohama at night.  Feng Shui.

A room lined with a history of noodle flavors at the Ramen Museum and factory.

Shrines, shrines, shrines.  Awe-inspiring.

In Osaka, a hot bowl of noodles and shrimp.

Lake Ashi at Hakone National Park on our way to Mt. Fuji.  Mystical bliss.

Statue of Izumo no Okuni, the creator of Kabuki Theater.  Her statue resides by the river she first danced through in downtown Kyoto. (Yes “she.”  Subsequent changes in Kabuki forbade women to be on stage…to this day)