Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Chinglish

David Henry Hwang (M Butterfly) wrote a telling and biting play about contemporary Chinese-American relations called Chinglish.  It is the play I assigned to my Intro. to World Theatre students for analysis and discussion.  I suspected the play would provide bridges for my students as they experienced this giant country.  I did not suspect the play would teach the teacher so well. 

Chinglish is about an American sign salesman from Ohio who is in China attempting to seal a deal with the government of a local province.  His family-owned business is on its last limb and if he can make this sale he will save the company…and himself.  The Chinese clients are badly bruised from poorly translated signs from previous experiences (i.e. “Chief Financial Officer” read “Financial Affairs is Everywhere Long” ).  As they move through multiple negotiations, translations from Chinese to English and English to Chinese are consistently misinterpreted and, in the end, the one thing that matters most is the power of Relationships or guanxi.  Relationships between people are international and cut through language and cultural barriers.  This is not to say the obstacles are easy to overcome—quite the opposite and are, in fact, fuel for many hilarious and touching moments in the play (in our lives too?).  In the end, its all about human to human.  In this case, our fragile, exposing and vulnerable Shared Humanity.

Current Chinese theater is a powerful blend of the past (Chinese Opera, Shadow Puppetry) and the future (western-style realism, film adaptations of American musicals).  I use the word “power” intentionally.  What was “delicately attended to” in Japan is “powerfully delivered” in China.  The Cultural Revolution and Communist government have controlled the artistic output of the country.  Many ancient theater tradition artifacts are marvelously on display (statues, texts) and many are nowhere to be found.  The filter of Chinese authority is apparent at every cultural turn.  Theater is important in China—the theater China wishes to be important.  We are wired in the west to frown upon “Communism.”  While human rights violations cannot be condoned in any country regardless of political ideology or labels (and I’m not just referring to Communist countries here), it is fascinating to see how the muscle of theater, storytelling and performance manage to muscle through the political messes we create to efficiently illuminate the character of a nation.  Is the Chinese government’s control of art so different than the West’s control of their art?  Censorship is censorship.  Perhaps familiarity makes one more digestible than the other?  I ask these questions of myself at each port to escape the potential cloud of judgment that may impair my view of the storytelling in front of me.  I try to come to each country in AFP fashion:  Open eyes, open ears, open heart.

The Theater of our visit was, as always, reflected both inside and outside of the physical theater.  We visited a national theater in Shanghai where large state-of-the-art flat screen televisions promoted the current season:  Classic Beijing Opera in all of it’s historic splendor running in reparatory with sleek-suited, contemporary family plays.  I have several students from China in my classes on the ship.  One of them is an avid follower of American musicals and was recently given permission on his home campus to direct a production of Rent.  I asked him how that was received and he said he couldn’t show “all of the play.”  I assumed that he meant he had to cut the homosexual and AIDS moments….you know, 85% of the play.  He replied “Oh no, not those things, those are widely discussed in our stories.  It was all of the drug use and wild freedom parts against authority we had to adapt.”  Interesting, interesting, interesting.  I wanted to see his production more than ever after our conversation.

Shanghai (“On the Ocean”)

After a port delay we finally arrived in rainy Shanghai.  It was cold and wet throughout our stay.  For all of our Buffalo friends, I’M NOT COMPLAINING…we thought about you and the winter you are having every time we were “bothered” by the rain.  We put on our ponchos (Maria packed us wisely) and headed out! 

Many people and publications suggested we go to the Bund as a great walking around place…we were not impressed…lots of malls and overpriced shopping cleverly wrapped in amazing architecture…old Shanghai meets new Shanghai…Chinglish! 

Craving authentic China we took a cab (super cheap way to travel in Shanghai) to Yuyuan Gardens and Bazaar.  This was a marvelous experience:  a maze of authentic Chinese stores, authentic traditional Chinese architecture, authentic Chinese food tightly snuggled in modern skyscraper Shanghai…Chinglish.  In the middle of Yuyuan is a beautiful traditional Chinese garden with a “floating” ancient tea house where we were treated to a wonderful tea ceremony…followed by a high pressure sales job to buy overpriced tea…Chinglish.  After deflecting the numerous arrows of commerce from several employees we left impressed with the ENTIRE ceremony…China is better at this capitalist thing than we are!  Who’s teaching who?? 

We spent the second part of our Shanghai day in the People’s Square where Nate was thrilled by the kazillion-story mall.  I think seeing high-priced Nikes and Starbucks grounded him a bit.  Thankfully we agreed to go to the top floor with him as there was an amazing food court filled with every Chinese food you could imagine.  Yes, we had to suffer through floors of Polo, Abercrombe and Banana Republic to find Dim-Sum, dumplings and squid…the Chinglish trek to the promised land.

Hong Kong

While Hong Kong certainly had its share malls (everywhere…I mean everywhere), the charm of this multi-island section of China embraced us.  Hong Kong enjoys its  own ways—they have their own currency, laws, ethos.  They are part of China and not part of China…very funky, very cool, certainly more progressive.  Still, Chinglish was apparent at every turn.  We even had to get to our ship through a super mall.

Our first day was spent on an amazing Semester at Sea field program that I led:  Tai Chi, Tea and Dim Sum.  We began our day taking a Tai Chi class outside, directly facing the harbor of Hong Kong.  Our teacher is a famous Tai Chi master…simply amazing experience.  Ancient martial arts set against the backdrop of one of the most impressive skylines in the world…Chinglish squared!  We then had the pleasure of taking a tea class from a tea master, Viviane.  She is PASSIONATE about tea—we ate, dissected, crumbled, analyzed and drank all types of Chinese tea. She was an inspired teacher and has an amazing company, Ming Cha Tea.  She is a mixture of old world teacher and marketing genius.; check out www.mingcha.com for Chinglish in action.  We completed this awesome day with Dim Sum lunch.  We were the only non-Chinese patrons at this sprawling movie set of a restaurant.  “Dim Sum” comes from the phrase “from the heart.”  From the heart of China to the stomachs of America…I’m still full.

For more on our Tai Chi, Tea, Dim Sum Day:


* The ship’s communication team does great work!

The next day was spent at Lantau, home of the largest sitting Buddha in Asia and the Po Lin monastery.  To say that we were deeply impacted would be an understatement.  We went with our friends Sara (the director of the children’s program on board the ship) and her husband Nick (videographer for the ship).  Nick asked if he could use our visit for a Semester at Sea story…this video really sums up our special visit and its connection to our voyage:




                                                                   Shanghai skyline

                                                                 YuYuan Bazaar

                                                               YuYuan Garden
                                                                YuYuan Teahouse

                                                                    Shanghai Mall Food

                                                     Chinese Opera Performance Poster

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