Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Morocco: If These Mountains Could Talk

It is always surprising to me how people who have not been to Africa assume the continent is filled with stereotypical landscapes of barren earth, grass huts, wild animals, native dancers…you know the picture.  I suppose this is true with any place we haven’t actually experienced and breathes truth to the adage:  “Assumptions kill reality.”  

The three African countries we visited this trip could not be more different from each other—southern, western and northern Africa each possess their own personalities, flavors and landscapes…Oh My, the Landscapes!  I wish I could pull the multiple stories I absorbed through the countless miles of travel (car, van, train, plane) from my imagination and plop it on this page.  With my nose pressed against countless windows, the steam of my exhales created an appropriate dream-like, misty frame for the stories before me.  Perhaps nowhere was this “dream” more evident than through the magical landscapes of Morocco.  The realities of this country’s ancient (Biblical) history spilled before us throughout our trek through the Atlas Mountains.  This would be our second visit to Morocco, the last time (2011) ending just outside of Marrakech at the foot of the mighty Atlas range.  This time we knew we wanted to go further, through the Atlas into the Sahara Desert for a camel trek and camp out under the magic of the desert stars.  We were not disappointed.  However, in a great lesson of staying present for each drop of the journey rather then only focusing on the goal, we were told Morocco’s story by…Morocco. 

For this entry I will attempt to let Morocco, the Land of Morocco bursting with exotic tales from thousands of years ago, tell you its story the way it did to us...through a sublime series of mind-boggingly beautiful images.  Sometimes the environment speaks much louder than its inhabitants...leaving us mere onlookers to feel beautifully insignificant...again.

Our ship ported in Casablanca

Casablanca train station--Morocco's train system is excellent--
we took the 3-hour ride to meet our guide in Marrakech
View of Marrakech from the top of our Riad--
note the Atlas Mountains calling from beyond
The winding streets of the Medina in Marrakech--
Contemporary aggressive Capitalism meets the old world.

The drive from Marrakech to the desert was a day filled with  picturesque stops
at the ever-changing Atlas Mountains...
As the elevation changed so did the climate, the way of living, the feel...
each village becoming one with its surroundings.
Conjuring images of caravans filled with Nomads, camels, tents...
the time it must have taken, the acceptance of the terrain...
we tried not to speed through and take it all in

The Atlas Mountains are the meeting place of two different kinds of air masses—
the humid and cold polar air masses that come from the north and
the hot and dry tropical air masses that move up from the south.
Cedar and Juniper explode one moment...

And the next hour is filled with spectacular dry visions of ancient times...
so much history, so many people, so much land, so many stories...

And magical combinations.

Historic Kasbahs where Berber communities lived, battles fought, families raised, cultures created. 
We often simply stood in awe of what was before us.

...
And to the promised land....












The Earth Opens and Welcomes You


by Abdellatif Laâbi (Moroccan Poet)
The earth opens
and welcomes you
Why these cries, these tears
these prayers
What have they lost
What are they looking for
those who disturb
Your new-found peace?

The earth opens
and welcomes you
Now
you're going to speak without witnesses
Oh, you've plenty to tell
and have all eternity to do so
Yesterday's words tarnished by the tumult
will gradually burn in silence

The earth opens and welcomes you
She alone desired you
without you making a move
She waited for you with none of Penelope's guile
Her patience was nothing but kindness
and it's kindness that brought you back to her

The earth opens
and welcomes you
She will not ask you to render accounts
of your fleeting affairs
wandering girls
heavenly bodies of flesh conceived in the eyes
fruits gifted by the vast orchards of life
sovereign passions that shine
in your palm's hollow
at the end of an indifferent language

The earth opens
and welcomes you
You're naked
And she's more naked than you
You're both beautiful
in that silent embrace
where hands can restrain themselves
and steer clear of violence
where the butterfly of the soul
avoids this semblance of light
to go in search of its origins
The earth opens
and welcomes you
One day, your beloved will rediscover
your legendary smile
and mourning will come to an end
Your children will grow
and read your poems unashamed
Your country will heal, as if by magic
when men consumed by the illusion
will drink from the fountain of your kindness

O my friend
sleep well
you need it
because you worked hard
like an honourable man

Before you left
you left your office in order
neatly arranged
You switched off the lights
and on stepping out
you looked at the sky
which was almost painfully blue
You gracefully smoothed your moustache
and said to yourself:
only cowards
think that death is the end
Sleep well my friend
Sleep the sleep of the righteous
Rest well
from your dreams too
Let us shoulder the burden a little





Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Going, Going, Ghana…Straight to the Heart.

One of my favorite things about Africa is its undeniable Heart.  The heart of the people, the culture, the land, the food all beat together in a spiritual unison that is difficult to describe.  Several years ago I had the pleasure of travelling to Rwanda with my dear friend Carl Wilkens.  Carl is a true Hero—the only American that stayed in Rwanda during the 1994 Genocide—a choice that saved hundreds of Rwandan orphan’s lives.  Thankfully, Carl and I have traveled back to Rwanda with students multiple times since and he has remained a significant member of the Anne Frank Project family.  This initial trip was my introduction to Africa and I had many questions—in his wisdom Carl answered my curiosities, “I can list thousands of adjectives about what you are about to experience, but simply put, be prepared to have your heart filled and broken every day.”  That was true then, has proven true on each return trip to Rwanda and certainly proved true again when we visited Ghana.

Heart Filled…

We had the opportunity to spend 2 days/1 night in the village of Torgorme, a short drive from the port city of Accra, situated along the lower Volta river.  As we pulled into the village we were, in typical African form, greeted by throngs of smiling (beaming!) children.  Children are the true heart of Africa.  Each child was waving, posing, jumping, dancing, aching for us to get out and be with them.  As soon as we stepped foot on the red-earthed ground our hands were immediately grabbed by the small, calloused, busy hands of our new  friends—they were clamoring to be the ones to host us…so proud, so happy, so excited.  They walked (carried?) us over to meet the paramount chief and elders of the village, we paid our respects, sat down in pre-assigned seats and watched the magic.  We were being primed for a traditional naming ceremony—each of us was to receive our African name—this ceremony included dancing, drumming, singing and culminated in each of us being officially named in front of the whole village and receiving a bracelet and handmade bowl.  Pottery and weaving are two of the specialties of Torgorme. The honor of being named amidst the pride of the whole village and the giggling of the children filled our Hearts


Village children crowding for the best view

Eye that melt the heart:)


Torgorme Village Paramount Chief and Elders

Village Teacher--when she moved, so did the children.

My African name:  Yao Elorm (Heart Connected to God)

Maria's African name:  Afi Dzifa (One Whose Heart is Pacified)

Nate's African name:  Yao Kporla (Leader)
They announced "Next Obama!"

Lots of post ceremony dancing!
After the ceremony we were introduced to our village family who would show us to our home for the night.  By American standards the village was a picture of intense poverty and despair.  By African (and world) standards, this was simply another poor rural village where too many people lived in too few homes, supported by too few schools with too few utilities (sparse electricity and no plumbing), but….and I mean BUT, this felt like one of the HAPPIEST places I have been.  The children were healthy, the smiles genuine and the sense of Community and Family…abundant.  Could this village use funding?  Absolutely.  Could they use more schools, teachers, services…Absolutley.  Were they lacking love?  Absolutely not!  The sense of love, togetherness and community was something I’d like to wrap up and deliver to our American “villages.”  We have much to learn from the world’s poor.  We have much to emulate in their immediate sense of “us” and invisible sense of “me.”  Those days spent touring, playing and experiencing Torgorme were amongst the most special of our trip.  Our hearts were overflowing…


Our host and village leader Daniel (and Israel squeezing in) 
Faces, smiles, stories

Nate was EXTREMELY popular

Kids are kids...
Heart Broken…

UNESCO has designated sites all over the globe as official World Heritage sites—those places, structures, monuments and environments having “outstanding universal value,”  (criteria:  http://whc.unesco.org/en/criteria/).  Of the 981 chosen sites worldwide, we have been privileged to see several on our travels.  The most significant UNESCO site for me were the Slave Castles of Ghana.  As I write these words the stark, cold emptiness of that experience chills my heart.  These magnificent structures were originally built along the ocean as trade ports by Europeans (Elmina Castle, Portuguese, 1482; Cape Coast Castle, Swede, 1653), but were transformed into slave holding dungeons to support the Atlantic slave trade.  Ghanaians were taken from their villages, herded like cattle to these holding cells, confined, abused, raped and then loaded through the “doors of no return” onto the slave ships for the treacherous journey to the Americas to be sold as slaves.  Most slaves did not survive the Atlantic crossing (they were ‘stored’ on the ship horrifically) and were discarded into the ocean as they perished.  (silence)  The shame, emptiness and heart breaking I experienced as I walked through these dungeons reminded me of the exact feelings I have when walking through other Genocide sites.  The smells, chills, horror…the same screams coming out of the same walls.  It’s all the same.  Genocide is genocide.  We, the United States don’t like to use the “G” word when it comes to our history, but the truth is the truth.  Our role in the African Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade is a crime against humanity.  We are not the only guilty party; we were part of a world agreement that deemed it necessary and appropriate to dispose of human life and dignity in the name of commerce.  I felt my personal and national heart break





No windows, no air, no light


Children playing futbol outside the slave castle...the dichotomy.
Heart Re-Filled…

Searching for healing (yes, there’s a theme here) I turned to theater.  Several months prior to our SAS voyage I connected with West African drummer Fred Tay.  We immediately hit it off as we shared similar reasons for performance:  To tell the giant stories of our societies, cultures and people—to tap into that “higher power” that is beyond literal explanation, to joyfully explain the unexplainable.  Fred and his drumming/dancing ensemble, African Arts, were the perfect lab experience for my Acting I students.  By this time of the semester their acting work tends to be dominated by the realistic approach to performance—this is the thrust of most western acting classes.  What I love about immersing them into the drumming and dancing of West Africa is that it is so different than what they are currently understanding as “acting.”  It really is all the same—the tools of the contemporary actor (psychology, body, voice, mind) are now complimented and informed by the symbolism of drumming and dancing.  The universal, raw, organic and immediate acting lessons my students learned that day are irreplaceable.  So much so, that I now intend on inserting African drumming and dancing in all of my acting classes.  In the end, amidst the gorgeous backdrop of the Ghanaian ocean, my students physically injected humanity into their acting work…into their lives.  What started as fun drumming evolved into a spiritual experience of community, personal discovery and emotional reflection…what more could an acting professor ask for?  Our hearts were beating with the drums until they were filled again…


Acting I Drum Circle 
Dance to the skies (stop looking at your feet!)

The Acting I crew with African Arts crew

Fred Tay--Friend for Life

Nice classroom, huh?

Friday, May 16, 2014

South Africa: Ubuntu, Reconciliation and Rwanda

Ubuntu:  I am because you are.

This cryptic piece of South African (Xhosa) wisdom was Nelson Mandela’s credo--an ultimate expression of our shared humanity, or as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. called it, “Our inescapable web of mutuality.”  Upon his release from nearly 3 decades of imprisonment, Nelson Mandela is said to have looked into his captor’s eyes and, rather than spew hatred or vengeance, stated simply, “Ubuntu.”  This was a moment beyond forgiveness; it was a moment of acceptance.  Mandela wasn’t in jail alone—his captors, the just and unjust, the free and oppressed were all with him in that small cell…WE were with him.  This profound South African idea became Mandela’s political and spiritual platform.  While all South Africans know the idea, is it transferable to the political leadership of their amazing, fragile and unique country? I believe it was easier to accept this idea when Mandiba (Mandela’s ancestral clan name) was alive.  His spirit permeates Cape Town at every turn.  We had the opportunity to take the emotional journey to the infamous Robben Island where Mandela was imprisoned for the majority of his exile.

The Mandela museum on the Cape Town waterfront where we boarded the boat to Robben Island

Cape Town (Table Mt.) from the boat to Robben Island

Robben Island became the symbol of oppression during Apartheid


Nelson Mandela's Cell

Nelson Mandela's "home" for so long...

These hallways were filled with the voices of the brutal prison guards of Robben Island.

Prison courtyard for brief outdoor trips.

Our guide and former fellow inmate of Nelson Mandela's.
An HONOR to connect him with Nate.

Pile of rocks started by Nelson Mandela and added to by former prisoners of Robben Island Prison



Nelson Mandela's view of Cape Town from Robben Island.
Since South Africa’s beloved Tata’s (Father) death, the question looms over this country like a mystical cloud:  Was Ubuntu connected to the man or the country?   Evidence for both sides were apparent throughout our visit.  The joy and welcoming smiles of the people we came in contact with suggest Ubuntu is more of a reflex than en edict.  The shocking and obvious economic disparity when you drive past elite mansions and depraved townships in a span of 5 minutes suggests Ubuntu may just be an idea, not a reality.  This contradiction is complicated and troubling.  It is also disrespectful to assume we have the answers as we watch from the outside.  One of the clearest lessons I have learned on this sabbatical is:  We, the United Sates, do not have all of the answers.  Our success as a country has fooled us into believing we need to offer our answers to each different community we encounter—as though the world is our “audience” watching our “show.”  I love America and I love being American, but I believe we can gain more by asking questions when we encounter ”different” rather than assume we have the answers.  In the countries I have visited in Asia and Africa there exists a profound respect for the wisdom of age.  The stories of grandparents and great grandparents are revered.  Africa is an “old” continent filled with ancient stories, ancient countries, and ancient histories—perhaps the “young” USA can listen, learn and benefit from the “old” grandparent of Africa?   

One such lesson came to me from an 85 year old black cab driver in Cape Town who had lived most of his life under the oppressive regime of Apartheid:  “You Americans need to be easier on our white South Africans.  It’s easy to blame them for Apartheid.  You have this thing called Civil Rights in the US, right?  Has everything working out perfectly with that?  Are black Americans treated the same as white Americans?  Give us time, give us time.”  I left the cab wiser that day.  This was not the first cab (bus, car, tuk-tuk, boat, taxi) driver who taught me valuable inside lessons—in fact, I highly suggest engaging drivers in dialogue during international travels—that’s where the people’s truth lives.  Patiently observe, ask questions, don’t assume and smile a lot—these are crucial commonalities I have experienced to be successful.  As you might imagine, these are important truths to bring back to the ship.  Ubuntu is also our theme for this SAS voyage.  As many of you know, this is the central building block in the foundation of the Anne Frank Project.  Seeing it, hearing it, feeling it in action, in all of its complexities is rewarding and a privledge. 

As usual, I turned to the theater to assist me in unpacking this giant box called post-Apartheid South Africa.   As usual, I found it.  At each new port SAS organizes welcome events with local universities.  The University of Cape Town thankfully hosted our welcome at a local theatre where a new play was being performed:  Missing by John Kani.  John Kani is an international theatre legend who’s work with South African playwright Athol Fugard is celebrated in every world theater text read today.  Not only were we to see the premier of John Kani’s latest play, but John Kani himself was starring in it!  A treat that fell from the heavens!  I’ve always said that if you’re curious about history, have a time machine and limited time, go to the Theater—you will learn everything you need to know about that particular society in 2 hours?  John Kani prepared us for South Africa beautifully:  A new play about a family navigating their post-apartheid lives, an inspired performance by a legend of world theater and an intimate post-show discussion for my students...an inspired discussion where Mr. Kani shared more about his philosophies of life than his performance in the play;  a discussion where my students actively understood the wisdom of age and storytelling.  A discussion filled with tools for practicing Ubuntu.




April 1994 was an explosive month in Africa.  In South Africa the dark curtain of Apartheid was raised.  In Rwanda the dark curtain of Genocide smothered the country.  It is hard to imagine such complete opposite events happening simultaneously.  Experiencing the reconciliation process in both countries was an honor and a struggle.  Twenty years later each country has its own story, its own process, its own journey filled with success and failure.  It is a remarkably humbling experience to feel both processes in person.  The tension between the spoken and unspoken is palpable in both countries.  The sense of faith in god as the ultimate decision maker calms the most fiery of opposition.  The division and distance between the people and the government is both hotly disputed and peacefully accepted.  Beyond all philosophical disagreements there is a stubbornly collective agreement that all hope begins with Education and that the future is truly in the hands of each country’s children—what will their story be?  That will be South Africa…That will be Rwanda. 

I reflect back on cab driver wisdom: 

Take a moment and review the previous paragraphs but replace “South Africa” and “Rwanda” with the “United States of America.”  I have been doing this for the past few moths and encourage my students to do the same—not to diminish our patriotism but to heighten our awareness that Democracy is a work in progress for every community, country and society wrestling with the idea of freedom.  No one country has mastered Democracy.  A universal recipe for Democracy does not exist.  This reflection process encourages me to erase “them” from my vocabulary and always insist that is “we” and “us” who are struggling to find what Democracy means.  To consider U.S. democracy without South African or Rwandan democracy is, well, undemocratic.  Patiently observe, ask questions, don’t assume and smile a lot.

Previous to the voyage I had scheduled 3-days of meetings in Kigali, Rwanda with education stakeholders to present the use of Drama-Based Education in their national curriculum.  These meetings were organized with new friends I met from the Global Engagement Institute, an organization with a long history of importing innovative education and training models to post conflict countries—they have an office in Rwanda.  So, while Maria and Nate climbed mountains in Cape Town, I flew to Kigali to proposed the AFP Model for story-building to representatives from the U.S. Embassy, Rwanda National Research and Documentation Center on Genocide, Rwanda National Commission for the Fight Against Genocide, National University of Rwanda, Inema Arts Center and the Wellspring Foundation for Education (and others).  I am pleased to report the work of AFP and our Drama-Based Education model was received with open arms, open hearts and open minds.  There is an immediate desire to begin training Rwandan teachers and supplying them with the tools and vocabulary to implement drama-based education in their classrooms.  We are presently creating the nuts and bolts for this programming—needless to say we are thrilled with this new step for AFP and look forward to complimenting Rwanda’s national curriculum—perhaps we will begin to give back to a country that has given us so much…Anne Frank smiles upon AFP again. 

*Please like AFP, join AFP, download AFP and keep tabs on AFP as this new stage of our work develops!

Yes, we went on a safari too:





Cape Town

South Africa's Soweto Gospel Choir will complete this post.  
They sang this tribute to Mandela in a Pretoria market 2 days after his death...


Ubuntu.