Friday, May 16, 2014

South Africa: Ubuntu, Reconciliation and Rwanda

Ubuntu:  I am because you are.

This cryptic piece of South African (Xhosa) wisdom was Nelson Mandela’s credo--an ultimate expression of our shared humanity, or as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. called it, “Our inescapable web of mutuality.”  Upon his release from nearly 3 decades of imprisonment, Nelson Mandela is said to have looked into his captor’s eyes and, rather than spew hatred or vengeance, stated simply, “Ubuntu.”  This was a moment beyond forgiveness; it was a moment of acceptance.  Mandela wasn’t in jail alone—his captors, the just and unjust, the free and oppressed were all with him in that small cell…WE were with him.  This profound South African idea became Mandela’s political and spiritual platform.  While all South Africans know the idea, is it transferable to the political leadership of their amazing, fragile and unique country? I believe it was easier to accept this idea when Mandiba (Mandela’s ancestral clan name) was alive.  His spirit permeates Cape Town at every turn.  We had the opportunity to take the emotional journey to the infamous Robben Island where Mandela was imprisoned for the majority of his exile.

The Mandela museum on the Cape Town waterfront where we boarded the boat to Robben Island

Cape Town (Table Mt.) from the boat to Robben Island

Robben Island became the symbol of oppression during Apartheid


Nelson Mandela's Cell

Nelson Mandela's "home" for so long...

These hallways were filled with the voices of the brutal prison guards of Robben Island.

Prison courtyard for brief outdoor trips.

Our guide and former fellow inmate of Nelson Mandela's.
An HONOR to connect him with Nate.

Pile of rocks started by Nelson Mandela and added to by former prisoners of Robben Island Prison



Nelson Mandela's view of Cape Town from Robben Island.
Since South Africa’s beloved Tata’s (Father) death, the question looms over this country like a mystical cloud:  Was Ubuntu connected to the man or the country?   Evidence for both sides were apparent throughout our visit.  The joy and welcoming smiles of the people we came in contact with suggest Ubuntu is more of a reflex than en edict.  The shocking and obvious economic disparity when you drive past elite mansions and depraved townships in a span of 5 minutes suggests Ubuntu may just be an idea, not a reality.  This contradiction is complicated and troubling.  It is also disrespectful to assume we have the answers as we watch from the outside.  One of the clearest lessons I have learned on this sabbatical is:  We, the United Sates, do not have all of the answers.  Our success as a country has fooled us into believing we need to offer our answers to each different community we encounter—as though the world is our “audience” watching our “show.”  I love America and I love being American, but I believe we can gain more by asking questions when we encounter ”different” rather than assume we have the answers.  In the countries I have visited in Asia and Africa there exists a profound respect for the wisdom of age.  The stories of grandparents and great grandparents are revered.  Africa is an “old” continent filled with ancient stories, ancient countries, and ancient histories—perhaps the “young” USA can listen, learn and benefit from the “old” grandparent of Africa?   

One such lesson came to me from an 85 year old black cab driver in Cape Town who had lived most of his life under the oppressive regime of Apartheid:  “You Americans need to be easier on our white South Africans.  It’s easy to blame them for Apartheid.  You have this thing called Civil Rights in the US, right?  Has everything working out perfectly with that?  Are black Americans treated the same as white Americans?  Give us time, give us time.”  I left the cab wiser that day.  This was not the first cab (bus, car, tuk-tuk, boat, taxi) driver who taught me valuable inside lessons—in fact, I highly suggest engaging drivers in dialogue during international travels—that’s where the people’s truth lives.  Patiently observe, ask questions, don’t assume and smile a lot—these are crucial commonalities I have experienced to be successful.  As you might imagine, these are important truths to bring back to the ship.  Ubuntu is also our theme for this SAS voyage.  As many of you know, this is the central building block in the foundation of the Anne Frank Project.  Seeing it, hearing it, feeling it in action, in all of its complexities is rewarding and a privledge. 

As usual, I turned to the theater to assist me in unpacking this giant box called post-Apartheid South Africa.   As usual, I found it.  At each new port SAS organizes welcome events with local universities.  The University of Cape Town thankfully hosted our welcome at a local theatre where a new play was being performed:  Missing by John Kani.  John Kani is an international theatre legend who’s work with South African playwright Athol Fugard is celebrated in every world theater text read today.  Not only were we to see the premier of John Kani’s latest play, but John Kani himself was starring in it!  A treat that fell from the heavens!  I’ve always said that if you’re curious about history, have a time machine and limited time, go to the Theater—you will learn everything you need to know about that particular society in 2 hours?  John Kani prepared us for South Africa beautifully:  A new play about a family navigating their post-apartheid lives, an inspired performance by a legend of world theater and an intimate post-show discussion for my students...an inspired discussion where Mr. Kani shared more about his philosophies of life than his performance in the play;  a discussion where my students actively understood the wisdom of age and storytelling.  A discussion filled with tools for practicing Ubuntu.




April 1994 was an explosive month in Africa.  In South Africa the dark curtain of Apartheid was raised.  In Rwanda the dark curtain of Genocide smothered the country.  It is hard to imagine such complete opposite events happening simultaneously.  Experiencing the reconciliation process in both countries was an honor and a struggle.  Twenty years later each country has its own story, its own process, its own journey filled with success and failure.  It is a remarkably humbling experience to feel both processes in person.  The tension between the spoken and unspoken is palpable in both countries.  The sense of faith in god as the ultimate decision maker calms the most fiery of opposition.  The division and distance between the people and the government is both hotly disputed and peacefully accepted.  Beyond all philosophical disagreements there is a stubbornly collective agreement that all hope begins with Education and that the future is truly in the hands of each country’s children—what will their story be?  That will be South Africa…That will be Rwanda. 

I reflect back on cab driver wisdom: 

Take a moment and review the previous paragraphs but replace “South Africa” and “Rwanda” with the “United States of America.”  I have been doing this for the past few moths and encourage my students to do the same—not to diminish our patriotism but to heighten our awareness that Democracy is a work in progress for every community, country and society wrestling with the idea of freedom.  No one country has mastered Democracy.  A universal recipe for Democracy does not exist.  This reflection process encourages me to erase “them” from my vocabulary and always insist that is “we” and “us” who are struggling to find what Democracy means.  To consider U.S. democracy without South African or Rwandan democracy is, well, undemocratic.  Patiently observe, ask questions, don’t assume and smile a lot.

Previous to the voyage I had scheduled 3-days of meetings in Kigali, Rwanda with education stakeholders to present the use of Drama-Based Education in their national curriculum.  These meetings were organized with new friends I met from the Global Engagement Institute, an organization with a long history of importing innovative education and training models to post conflict countries—they have an office in Rwanda.  So, while Maria and Nate climbed mountains in Cape Town, I flew to Kigali to proposed the AFP Model for story-building to representatives from the U.S. Embassy, Rwanda National Research and Documentation Center on Genocide, Rwanda National Commission for the Fight Against Genocide, National University of Rwanda, Inema Arts Center and the Wellspring Foundation for Education (and others).  I am pleased to report the work of AFP and our Drama-Based Education model was received with open arms, open hearts and open minds.  There is an immediate desire to begin training Rwandan teachers and supplying them with the tools and vocabulary to implement drama-based education in their classrooms.  We are presently creating the nuts and bolts for this programming—needless to say we are thrilled with this new step for AFP and look forward to complimenting Rwanda’s national curriculum—perhaps we will begin to give back to a country that has given us so much…Anne Frank smiles upon AFP again. 

*Please like AFP, join AFP, download AFP and keep tabs on AFP as this new stage of our work develops!

Yes, we went on a safari too:





Cape Town

South Africa's Soweto Gospel Choir will complete this post.  
They sang this tribute to Mandela in a Pretoria market 2 days after his death...


Ubuntu.





















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